Northern Exposure, Queensland

By Pedro O'Connor: The "Best Job in the World" was recently won by an excited young Englishman. He has no comprehension just how amazing his next 6 months of living on the Great Barrier Reef is going to be. I have been fortunate to grow up with the reef as my playground and I am still blown away every time I spend a day on the water after 40 plus years.

I was privileged to have the opportunity to show off my backyard of Port Douglas, the Daintree Rainforest and Lizard Island to a small group of clients. The flight over the Ribbon Reefs, en route to Lizard Island, puts into context the immensity of the reef system, yet it is not until you place you head underwater that you start to comprehend its complexity. Descending onto Lizard Island, the undisputed gem in the crown, one client declared the main beach at the lodge as "the best I have ever seen" ... and there are 23 more like it scattered around the island!

Ranked as one of the top 5 dive sites in the world, you can’t miss the Cod Hole. My Brazilian friend (who had never snorkelled in her life) could not believe her eyes and stayed mesmerised by the natural splendour of the diversity of marine life. She was in a trance-like state for some time after! After a quick flight back to Port Douglas we lounged in luxury on a 72 ft yacht at Low Isles, while enjoying sunset drinks and some of the best and freshest seafood on the planet. Juxtaposing nicely, we then ventured to a typical Aussie pub for the weekly Cane Toad Races. Our illustrious leader from Los Angeles was fortunate to be drawn as a jockey but was pipped at the post and came in second after many anxious moments and laughs.

We 'hunted' and 'gathered' with local aborigines, and visited a world of tropical fruits of all colours, shapes, sizes and flavours unknown to most people. A sensory delight in so many ways, this is a must see on any North Queensland itinerary. As the ultimate refresher we then drift snorkelled down a pristine rainforest stream, floating through a wonderland of natural beauty.

I could continue to wax lyrical but I believe the email I received today from my new Texan friend says it all – “The landscape, water and wildlife are some of the most incredible I have ever seen. But far more important than that I had the pleasure and privilege of meeting some of the most wonderful people in the entire world. I can't even put in to words how much I appreciate the kindness that was shown me during my visit and have to tell you that in all my travels, because of each of you, this was by far the best. I look forward to working with you, and most especially to our next visit." I rest my case – come see for yourself!

If you would like more information on the islands of the Great Barrier Reef, the Daintree Rainforest, or Port Douglas and its surrounds, please contact Pedro O'Connor.

Hiking the Bay of Fires, Tasmania

By Kirstie Walia: I have just returned from guiding a small group of clients through the Bay of Fires in Tasmania. Our principle destination was the wilderness paradise of the north-eastern coast, where we trekked alongside the Mt William National Park and into the spectacular Bay of Fires, over four days. Preceded by a luxurious overnight at the recently refurbished colonial Quamby Estate (just outside of Launceston), we were briefed, kitted up and driven to the starting point of our trek; the very top right hand corner of Tasmania. Heading south we covered between 9km and 11km on the first two days. Although that may not sound a lot to most active sorts, it is worth noting that this is primarily on sand, sometimes over boulders and through heath-land, and carrying a 10kg pack – not something one does every day. Saying this, if one is of reasonable fitness, the walk is broken into manageable segments and frequent stops are made for drinks, food and chocolate (and I seriously thought I would lose weight on this trip…).

We were blessed with magnificent autumnal weather, incredible clear skies, turquoise waters and bright rolling surf every day. The first night on the trail is spent at a semi-permanent eco-camp nestled behind sand dunes, just off the beach. While simple, it is effective and surprisingly comfortable. The second and third nights are at the Bay of Fires Lodge, an architecturally significant and awarded eco-lodge, inaccessible by road. The third day is spent kayaking through the peaceful Ansons River. Our young professional guides and lodge manager amazed us throughout, with their knowledge and commitment to the environment, and in the kitchens with enormous home-cooked meals, ranging from steaks, to fresh bread, home-cooked pies and desserts. Our nights dropped to near-freezing, however thermals are recommended whenever you travel, as is good quality sun protection to prevent glare from the beach. Packs and rain jackets are provided.

I then spent two days with Doris White (Virtuoso VAST Board Member) visiting Cradle Mountain and its surrounds. From here, we can arrange participation in the Overland Track - a fantastic hut-to-hut trek over six days, staying at private huts away from the public path, fully guided and catered, complete with heaters and bedding.

Walks run from October to May each year. For more information on either of these treks, please contact Kirstie.

Botswana - The Months Less Travelled

By Kirstie Walia: During March and April, water is nearing its peak in the Okavango Delta and this year’s run-off from Angola has been particularly high. Naturally you would expect game sightings to be limited as there is plenty of food and water to go around, however you might just be pleasantly surprised.This is one of the biggest floods in many, many years.

I recently returned from a magnificent trip into the Delta: Travelling at this time of year one is privy to a different Africa – the wildlife is not as desperate or combative for food, which makes for a more relaxed game viewing experience. The Delta at its most beautiful, with plenty of animals to peacefully observe. Game aside, the greenery stretched for miles as we took to the air to transit between camps. Some hops were short and I wished for longer air time to further imprint this unique world image into my mind.

Being at the end of the official “wet” (rainy) season meant that we were graced with several sightings of young game. Delta animals will wait for the first rains to drop their young, to ensure that there is enough food and water to see them through their first tough months. Breeding herds of elephants instinctively gathered around the newest addition when they heard our boat or Land Cruiser put-put by. Gangly young giraffe stayed glued to their mother’s side in search of the next tasty acacia thorn tree, baby hippo found their footing in the muddy banks. Just delightful.

After enjoying the water-based activities of Xigera camp, we were also blessed with quite a show. Right beside the airstrip, a female leopard sprung atop a termite mound and sat, carefully changing position as she thoroughly surveyed her environs.

The ‘moral’ of this letter is that it doesn’t have to be middle of the dry season for you to visit Botswana. Whether a first time visitor or a returning traveller, you will be just as impressed by this ever-changing wilderness. Either way, I am sure that you will depart, like me, with the desire to return again and again.

Green Season in the Ruaha

By Rob Barbour: I was recently in Ruaha with some clients from England, staying at Kigelia Camp. Although it was still considered green season I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of wildlife which seems to be resident there all the time. These lions were found on an overcast day sunning themselves out in the open after a chilly night.

We had a wonderful siting of a young female leopard in a baobab tree who was also very relaxed. From her lofty vantage point looking out over the Mwagusi Sand River she had a perfect view of everything around her, whilst catching the warmth of the early morning sun.

I was also very happy to come across these 5 adult dogs as it has been a while since they have been sited. They were not the prettiest or healthiest dogs I have seen but, none the less, wild dogs.

We also had great sitings of both lesser and greater kudu and the usual congregations of elephant. One bull elephant (with exceptionally thick tusks and the same degree of confidence) seems to have taken a liking to our camp area and was drinking from my shower bucket on more than one occasion! To find out more about Kigelia Camp, please see our previous posting entitled "Fantastic New Camp in Tanzania" (Sept 08).